Back from Germany

Former shop sign, Shadowstrasse

Just back from three excellent days in Germany, specifically the cities of Cologne and Düsseldorf.

I was primarily there for the huge Cologne photography trade fair Photokina, but also visited the Düsseldorf Quadriennale (yes, they do exist).

I'll post separately about Photokina and the Quadriennale, but thought that I'd briefly share my thoughts about Düsseldorf.


Vodafone Tower

Although I've been to Cologne on many occasions, I've never made it to nearby Düsseldorf. First impressions were that it's a bit underwhelming, but during the course of a few days the city really gets under your skin. The inner suburbs seem to consist largely of low-rise 1960s apartment blocks; if you are familiar with the city shots by photography Thomas Struth then you will know exactly what I mean.

It's a place of designer fashion - the Königsallee boulevard is lined with fashion boutiques that reminded me of Paris or Omotesando in Tokyo. In fact, the Japanese influence is everywhere, with a Japan quarter and lots of large department stores that are more downtown Ginza than western Germany. It's testament to the city's status as an international business hub.


Rhein promenade
Right at the heart of Düsseldorf is the cutesy old town, its streets lined with a multitude of bars and restaurants. The Aldstadt faces directly onto the Rhine, which is spanned by a series of cable-stayed bridges which seem to be the favourite type of crossing in this part of the country.


Refurbishment to Town Hall in the Aldstadt


You can never have too many cable-stayed bridges


Düsseldorf's Media Harbour is like a mini Docklands, but with far more interesting modern architecture, by the likes of Alsop & Störmer and David Chipperfield, not forgetting Frank Gehry's fantastical Rheinhafen arts and media complex. Nearby is the TV tower, an obligatory feature of most German cities.











But Düsseldorf's real jewels are its art galleries, and it's a real mecca for photography lovers thanks to its art school, which produced such luminaries as Andreas Gursky, Thomas Ruff, Candida Höfer and Thomas Struth, under the tutelage of the Bechers.